INSTRUCTIONS:

READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTIONS BFORE PROCEEDING!

ATTENTION! - Do not assemble the Slave Cylinder Piston into the Body until instructed - it plays an important part in properly filling the system.

Also, have a few shop rags handy to clean up any brake fluid that might spill.

NOTE CONCERNING BRAKE FLUID:
Brembo advises NOT to use DOT5 Silicon fluid but only DOT4 type, stating that their seals are not compatible with the Silicon type fluids. This is advised for the Clutch Kit also.

COMMENT:
Installing this Kit should greatly reduce the Clutch Lever pressure and result in better shifting and easier neutral selection as well. However, defects such as weak or broken Clutch Springs, worn or warped Clutch Plates, Clutch Hub nuts that are loose or backed off and Pressure Plates that do not release square will all effect the performance of this Kit. If you are in doubt about any of these, thoroughly inspect the Clutch before proceeding. Make especially sure that the Clutch Hub nut is properly tightened (Loc-Tite and torque to 80-90 ft.lbs.), and make absolutely certain that the Pressure Plate is releasing true! Move the Clutch Springs around or shim them if needed to get a square, wobble free release - you cannot get this too perfect!

INSTALLATION:

Remove the Gas Tank.

Remove the Sprocket Cover from the Engine. Clean if necessary.

Remove the Clutch Cable and Handlebar Lever assembly.

Remove the Clutch Adjuster Cover Plate from the Clutch Cover. (This is the small oval cover with the word DUCATI on it held on with two slotted screws.)

Remove the Clutch Adjuster Screw and Lock Nut from the Pressure Plate.

Next, put a towel or drain pan under the Engine below the Front Sprocket, or have a helper there to catch the Clutch Rod pieces.

Now take the 14inch long aluminum rod provided in the Kit and insert it into the Clutch Adjuster Screw hole and push all the Throw-out pieces out toward the Sprocket side.

Do not push from the Sprocket side! The Transmission Shaft is stepped down several inches in and the large (8mm) Rollers and Ball will not go all the way through from that side, but more importantly, you may inadvertently push the small (6mm) Roller that contacts the Adjuster Screw into the Clutch

Once you have all the pieces out remove the small Roller just mentioned: You will NOT put this piece back in!

Clean the remaining pieces - these should include (in order, from the clutch side) a 6mm Rod, a 6mm Roller, another 6mm Rod, an 8mm Roller, an 8mm Ball, another 8mm Roller, and the short 8mm Rod with one rounded end - 7 pieces in all.

Reinstall the Clutch Adjusting Screw and Lock Nut, turning the screw in only a few threads. (You will be adjusting this later.)

Next, put a dab of grease (Moly grease is best) on the ends of all the Clutch Rod pieces and coat the 8mm Ball as well.

Reinstall the pieces into the Transmission Shaft. (When installing the 6mm Roller that goes between the two 6mm Rods take care that it does not cock sideways and wedge into the shaft at the step. If it does it may be necessary to remove the Clutch Adjuster Screw and drive the roller back out with a long drift.)

Next, take the 3/32 Punch provided in the Kit and drive out the 2.5mm Roll Pin holding the Cable Arm to the Pivot Pin located in the Lugs in the Sprocket Cover. Remove the Pivot Pin and Arm. Clean the Pivot Pin and keep at hand.

Hold the Sprocket Cover with the Lugs facing up: You will have one of two types - 750 style (Those with the Selector Box built in), or a Darmah/SS style (Those with the lugs and support webs only)

click images for larger views

On 750 style Covers it will be necessary to notch the triangular web rising from one of the Bushing Bosses to the rear Lug. Come straight over on line with the top of the Bushing Boss to the top edge of the Lug and up. (See photo #1)

Once the notch has been cut, take the Slave Cylinder Body and check it for fit between the lugs and make sure the Pivot Pin will pass through the Lugs and Cylinder Body. With the rare exception of some light filing on the inside edges of the Lugs, most 750 style Covers will require no further work. (Do not install the Slave Cylinder into the Cover at this point!)

The Darmah/SS style Covers will require some rounding off of the top inside corners of the Lugs: These have a much more squared off shape than the 750 style and the Slave Cylinder Body will not set down far enough for the Pivot Pin holes to line up. File or grind these until the Cylinder Body will fit easily between them and the Pivot Pin can be passed through the holes. Be sure to round off all the way to the back of the Cable Arm slot or the Slave Cylinder Body will not fit square with the Cover. (See photo #2)

Locate the Stand-Off post in the Kit. (This is the short aluminum piece with a hole at one end and a flat machined on the other. This piece is used only with the Darmah/SS style covers and will not be in the 750 Kit!) Fit it to the Lug on the back of the Slave Cylinder Body and turn it so that the flat clears the support web when the two pieces are put into the Sprocket Cover. (See photo) Recheck the fit of the Slave Cylinder Body with the Lugs and the alignment of the Pivot Pin holes. (Do not install the Slave Cylinder into the Cover at this point!)

Mount the Master Cylinder to the handlebars. Make sure that any switch you may have does not interfere with the Clutch Lever being able to go all the way to the bars. Attach the Banjo and Line, hand tighten only, and route the Line down to the slot where the Cable Arm came through the Crankcase. Allow several inches for the line to reach through the Case to the Slave Cylinder. (Do not zip-tie the line in place yet.)

Next, locate the lower Cable Arm slot in the RH Crankcase just above the Sprocket. You will have to grind 1/8 of an inch or so from the RH edge of this slot on all models to get the clearance needed for the Line at the Slave Cylinder fitting. (See photo #4) This will be required on the LOWER slot only - No grinding will be needed on the upper slot. Be sure to protect the Hydraulic Line, and cover the Sprocket and Transmission Shaft to shield them from any chips or debris.

Next, mount the Slave Cylinder Body (along with Stand-Off post on Darmah/SS models) into the Sprocket Cover using the original Pivot Pin. (Do not Roll Pin it into place yet - you will be removing the Slave Cylinder from the Sprocket Cover one more time.)

Attach the Line to the Slave Cylinder Fitting, screwing it on just hand tight, and fit the Cover to the Crankcase. Check to make sure the Line has visible clearance on both sides of the lower slot and grind any extra if necessary.

Once the Cover fits without interference, go back to the Master Cylinder, and tighten the Banjo Bolt and Line. Make sure the Line is still routed correctly and twist free and tighten the Line to the Slave Cylinder fitting. (Do not zip-tie the Line in place yet.)

NOTE: The line nuts will sometimes need an extra cinch to get a good seal: this should not need to be excessive, just make sure they are not leaking once you are pumping the system and tighten if needed until they seal

Remove the cover from The Master Cylinder Reservoir and turn the Handlebars so that the Reservoir is above the level of the Banjo Bolt. If you have clip-on bars or some other bar style that causes the Master Cylinder to angle downward it will be best to remove it from the Handlebar and have a helper hold it at the angle suggested above.

Find the Slave Cylinder Piston in the kit and lube the Seal generously with brake fluid. Set the Piston aside but keep it within easy reach.

Now remove the Slave Cylinder from the Sprocket Cover and, being careful not to kink or damage the Line, bring the Slave Cylinder up until it is ABOVE the level of the Master Cylinder Reservoir. Hold it with the Piston Bore facing up, and fill the Bore with brake fluid. Keep the Bore filled with fluid as it drains into the line. Keep filling it until you see fluid flowing into the Master Cylinder Reservoir - this is very important. Once the Master Cylinder Reservoir fills with 1/8 inch or so of fluid, top up the Slave Cylinder Bore with fluid and quickly insert the Piston (Flat side first) into the Body. Have a shop rag or two handy since brake fluid will likely overflow from the Slave Cylinder until the Seal begins to enter the Bore. It may take a firm push to get the Seal to enter the Body, but once it is in it should slide smoothly with only moderate effort. Push the Piston with enough force to cause a small pressure dome of fluid to appear in the Master Cylinder Reservoir. CAUTION! Do not push the Piston too hard as this will cause a gusher at the Reservoir and spray brake fluid over the bike!

As you are pushing the Piston watch the Master Cylinder Reservoir for air bubbles. If you have gotten enough fluid into the system before installing the Piston there should be almost no air left, and what little there may be left should be forced out while pushing the Piston in. (The volume of the Piston Bore is enough to change the fluid in the line several times.) Push the Piston in all the way until it bottoms.

Wipe the Slave Cylinder clean of fluid and route it back down to the Crankcase and install it (along with Stand-Off post on Darmah/SS covers) into the Sprocket Cover Lugs. Take the Pivot Pin and line up its hole with the hole in the Slave Cylinder Body and push it into place. Use the 3/32 Punch to align the holes and insert the new 2.5mm roll pin provided in the kit. Tap it in until it is flush with the Body.

Make sure the Master Cylinder Reservoir has at least 1/2 inch or so of brake fluid and see that it does not go dry from here on out.

Put firm thumb pressure against the Slave Cylinder Piston and pull the Clutch Lever all the way to the bar. You should feel a short but solid push at the Piston and the Clutch Lever should have a smooth consistent feel. If there is no movement at the Piston and the Lever feels too free, there is probably still some air in the system - most likely in the Banjo fitting and the Master Cylinder Piston cavity where air pockets will often form. Usually pumping the Clutch Lever several times will fix this. And if not, holding the Master Cylinder so that the Banjo is well below the level of the Reservoir and then pumping the Lever a bit will do the trick. When pumping the Lever it is not necessary to pull it all the way to the bars, just back enough to get the Master Cylinder Piston to move a bit so that a bit of fluid is forced into the line and any air is allowed to float up and out of the system

Keep working as long as you see air bubbles, no matter how small, coming into the Reservoir. This may take several minutes.

If you are using the bleed style Banjo Bolt you can open the bleed screw while pulling the Clutch Lever and possibly force some air out that way.

Check the feel of the system occasionally by pulling the Clutch Lever all the way to the bars. You should soon have a smooth, slack free feel at the Clutch Lever and a solid push from the Slave Cylinder Piston.

In the unlikely event that after performing the steps suggested above it still doesn't seem right, you may need to repeat the filling process. Turn the Slave Cylinder so it is facing Piston side up and operate the Clutch Lever until the Piston is forced out of its Bore. Be careful not to pump all of the fluid out of the Master Cylinder Reservoir, as this will cause air to enter the line! Fill the Piston Bore again and reinsert the Piston and push it in until it bottoms. Recheck the feel of the system and repeat the steps outlined above as needed.

You may have noticed the threads machined into the Piston just in front of the hardened steel button. These are 14 x 1.5mm threads to allow the Piston to be extracted by hand. Simply screw a 14 x 1.5mm bolt into the Piston and carefully pull it out - this was done to allow the unit to be serviced where compressed air may not be available. So if you can't pump the Piston out you can always resort to that.

Once you are satisfied that all is well hydraulically, fill the Master Cylinder to the level line and install the Reservoir cover.

Install the Sprocket Cover, making sure to put a light dab of Moly grease on the rounded end of the push rod and line it up with the center of the Piston as you go. Torque the 6mm bolts to 100 inch lbs. and the 8mm bolt to 14 ft. lbs.

Next, go over to the Clutch Cover side and turn the Clutch Adjusting Screw in until you feel the Slave Cylinder Piston bottom out solidly then back the Screw out 1/2 to 2 turns and lock it down.

Pull the Clutch Lever several times to take up the slack between the Piston and Push Rod.

You should now have a smooth, slack free feel at the Clutch Lever and a clean, complete release of the Pressure Plate.

You should now be able to operate the Clutch. You can verify its operation by using the Kick Start Lever or Electric Starter to make sure it is releasing all the way.

Finally, reinstall the Adjuster Cover Plate. Zip-tie the Hydraulic Line to keep it routed and out of harms way. Put the Tank back on. Make sure the Master Cylinder clamp is tightened. And test ride...